Last camp before winter comes?
Some pictures on my 1975 VW T3 Baywindow bus with factory spec highroof. Color is “VW Marino Yellow L20a”. Last picture shows how it all started…
New rear taillights on the Highroof Bay bus. Housings are new aftermarket, lenses are clearcoated original VW from SWF. Some pics…
#highroofbayproject
In this post I will show how I make a cabinet door from a big sheet of plywood. After lots of measures it’s time to cut these numbers out to actually real things, this time cabinet doors for a overhead locker/storage to the Highroof Bay.
Draw up the dimensions on a 12mm lightweight plywood (never use ink pen!). Then cut it out with a steady hand and a jigsaw. Cut out laminate in slightly bigger size than the plywood, add 3M laminate glue on both sides, let it dry separate for 60mins. Then press the laminate together with the plywood and put it under pressure for at least 1hour or 2. Repeat it again to do the other side if needed. After this it’s time to use the electric wood router and cut out the coutures. Then cut a profile in the end of the door using a special router bit. When this is done you can start knocking on the edging, you can buy these from special wood company’s or camper conversion firms. Then measure out were you want the doorknob, drill it out, press in a bezel and install the lock. Mount hinges. Now you have one complete door, just everything else left to do 😉 Good luck!
Some of you have been asking for build plans for the Highroof Bay bus interior, but the only plans I have is in my head, sorry guys! 🙂
The new heater is now installed and incorporated with the old heater system design on the Highroof bus. Easiest and fastest way to install this would be to just place it under one of the sofas inside the bus and pull the heater hose out. But I decided to complicate it a little more but in the end with a much better result I believe. My bus had the Eberspacher heater M-code from factory so my idea is to remove the old heater and replace it with a new modern diesel heater.
Doing it this way, I will get a modern reliable diesel non explosive/safer heater than the old which ran on petrol. I will automatically get digital display with timer, remote start, thermostat control and much more. I will not loose space or hear the noise from it (like if it was installed inside the bus) because the heater will now be outside under the middle floor (inside the protective splashpan) where the old factory heater was mounted. I will now get heat not only in the rear of the bus but also in front cab and windshield ect. I will also add some extra airflaps in the heaterchannel so I can adjust the heat to only front or back to the rear floor, bed and top bunk. I will then insulate all pipes with aluminum air bubble foil to protect the heat from the cold surrounding. More work doing it like this but I think it will be all worth it in the end.
I started by removing the old crusty Eberspacher BA6 heater that was mounted in the center under the floor, mounted a new 90mm center pipe under floor instead (like on a ordinary Baywindow without the BA6 heater option). The new parking heater was the installed on the side of the new center pipe. It was a really tight fit, the height of the heater is 140mm and the space under floor was 145mm. I had to cut a 3-40mm notch out in one of the floor supports to make it even possible. The heater exhaust was wrapped in “header wrap” for less heat radiation and was routed out back to a muffler and then out in front of the left rear wheel. You don’t want to route the exhaust fumes out on the sliding door side of course! The fuel pump was mounted in a rubber holder in 40 degree angle on the frame of the bus, filter was put on outside for easier change in future. The air intake for the combustion chamber was routed back (don’t place it against wind/driving direction) and a filter bolted in the end. The air inlet to the heater fan is hooked up to the stock inlet pipe (from a hole under the rear rock n roll sofa). This means it will circulate warmer and warmer air, and don’t have to warm it up from ice cold outside air all the time. It will make it produce more heat too. The heater outlet is connected to a air flap (where I can choose where I want the hot air, front cabin or rear. I also made a extra heat pipe for the rear bed and top bunk, so you can feel the heat directly in the bed when you turn it on in the morning. 🙂 You can see the heat outlet in top bunk on the last picture. Stock is only rear floor otherwise. The small 10 liters diesel tank will be mounted under or behind the front passenger seat, this way you can easily see when it’s time to refill. It consumes only between 0,19-0,5 liters per hour. So on one tank it can run on full blast for about 20-24 hours before it time to fill it up again. Insulated all pipes from back/rear of the engine to all the way to the front cabin. Still have some electric wiring left to do before it all done. Can’t wait to test this beauty out!!
Have been routing waterlines, electrics, wires, 12v DC USB outlets, 240v hook up socket, inverter with pure sinuswave, batterycharger, thermostatic ventilation roof fan, controlpanel with automatic fuses, LED spotlights, Gasoline heater BA6 enerspracher, extra fridge fans with thermostat control and much more.
Rock n roll bed/sofa is done with 45 liters freshwater tank underneith. Sink is finished with water inlet hot and cold. 12 liters greywatertank (if using water parked on camping or in city) Also have a outlet valve so it can be emptyed if parked in the woods.
Overhead locker is almost finished also, that will have a ton of storage. And will also have controlpanel integrated and space for future solarpanel controllers ect.
More to come soon, next to do is installing headliner/roof before overhead locker goes in. Also all electrics in roof (fans, spotlights, 12v outlets ect) need to be done first!
Piece by piece it’s coming together! I Have been fixing with the bumpers and wheels lately. It have all been sandblasted, welded, epoxyed, sanded, primered and painted in same white as the roof. Really starts to come together now, some light in the tunnel. But still lots left to do, here is some new pics…
#highroofbayproject
Have now started with the interior on the Highroof bus. Have put sounddeadning mats in floors and doors, sprayed it all with wax for rust protection. Then added insulation (Refectix) a material of aluminium with plasticcells of air in middle. NASA came up with this tecnology when insulating spaceships actually! After this I put some extra 5mm insulation foamboards (green) then 15mm marine plywood and then a new linoleum carpet in Classic checker pattern, went with light grey to match the grey details on furnitures. The furnitures itselfs is in Light Oak wood finish (laminate). I built it all in a special extra light plywood 15mm. This interior is gona weight nothing!! And thats great in a slow VW bus, all the stuff thats going to be loaded in the cabinets are heavy enought 😉 The kitchen pod/cabinet is featuring a new Vitifrigio fridge on 48 liters + 2 liter freezer. A new small owen in stainless that will be running on 240v (euro). The zink is from a newer crashed/parted out Knaus campervan I bought cheap online. The lid in top is hiding a gastove and the cupboard in bottom will be housing the greywater tank etc.
Still have plenty to do before I can start restoring the 1800cc AP engine.
More to come soon!
#highroofbayproject
So the Highroof is now painted at last, in Marino Yellow VW L20a, period correct for 1975. It have been a ton of work and to get that yellow color to cover the bus needed to be painted 4times/coats. That because all yellow (and sometimes red) colors have less pigment than all other colors.
Now the fun can begin, mounting on all new parts like lights, handles etc! Next step will be to start with the interior and begin with insulation in walls and floor. Would be nice to have the most done on interior and exterior until fall so the winter can be focused on engine build and install etc.
More pics coming soon!
Lots of work have been done lately on the VW Baywindow Highroof! Whole roof have been finished in California White color. All doors and lids have been painted on the insides and then fitted back on the body. All panels are now sanded in 800grit and ready for toppaint in VW L20a Marino Yellow!
#highroofbayproject
Started to disassembly the VW Baywindow Highroof engine this weekend. A stock Type 4 1800cc AP case (no hydraulic lifters) and dual Solex carbs. Going to be rebuild from ground up and get some extra performance parts for even more torque! Plan is to resurface the heads, 96mm Porsche 914 cylinders, better carb setup and a better flowing exhaust system. Probably going to keep the stock camshaft ratio, because it gives maximum torque already around 2200 RPM, wich is perfect for a heavy bus and hills.
The engine was already unbolted when I got the bus and I did not know anything about it, more than it was a AP 1800cc VW type 4. I saw it was cleaned a little bit and the cylinders looked to have new paint on them. So somebody have started to restore it was my guess. But I saw that the lower cylinderhead cooling thins was missing, so I got a little suspicious about how good restored it really was going to be when important parts like that not was installed back. Hmm!
Here is some new pics…
What I had to start with. Dirty old lump!
Teardown started, cylinderheads is off! Something have happend in cylinder nr 1 at some point. It had small marks and dings on the combustionchamber and on top of the piston. Nothing to serious tho. Maybe a washer or parts of a valveseat? One of the valves was new too. Funny thing is that the piston that had marks was now installed in cylinder nr 2. Not a good thing to mix them up on old used cylinders. But doesn’t matter now since I will replace them with all brand new 96mm cylinders and pistons.
The good thing is that the cylinderheads are the ones with partnumber ending with an “S”. And have the biggest valves VW ever put in any bus! Intake 41mm and exhaust 34mm. Bingo! Only Porsche 914 had bigger, and they also had a different angle on the sparkplugs for better performance/combustion. Heads will get rid of the headgaskets, resurfaced 0,5-1mm, new valve guides, new machined valveseats in a better material (Type 4 engines are famous for dropped valveseats) and new valves and new springs etc.
When I pulled of the nr 4 cylinder I found a rag inside the case(!) Somebody probably forgot it there. Ig the engine had been started up it would not run for a long time thats for sure! It was now confirmed that a total crackhead had restored my engine before.
Everything removed and all bolts and washers etc. Ready to split!
Every part labeled and bagged, keeping it organized and clean is a must when building a motor.
Camshaft totally shot! And nr 1 cambearing was worn down to the copper. Camshafts are almost never in good shape on the Type 4 engines, even worse on the later ones with hydrauliclifters. Highpressure and not the best design on the cam/followers are the main reason for this.
Crankshaft is out and looked to be in nice shape, bearings not to bad either. But will get replaced of course!
The old 93mm (1800cc) cylinder and pistons, will get replaced with new 96mm and will make it to a 1911cc.
Empty engine halves ready to be 100% clean
Inspection done, cleaning next on the list. Degreaser and hot highpressure washing etc.
Have not got very much done lately. As my first son (1 year old) takes most of the time now. So that more important at the moment. But Im trying to push forward on the bus too, couple of hours after work and on weekends etc. Soon have all doors and lids in primer and then it all just needs a easy sanding and then its time for a paintjob! Have also sandblasted the fueltank cover and bellypan and got them painted and ready too. Hope to start rebuild of the 1800cc Type 4 engine in begining of February also!
More to come, but thats it for now, here is some pics…
Blasted and epoxyprimer, ready for topcoat in VW factory greyish
Baremetal then yellow epoxy/zinc primer
Topcoat in VW L20a Marino Yellow with 2K polypaint with elastic characteristics. So the stones wont chip the paint. The gloss on the elastic is a little less, but this panel is under the car and you normaly never see it anyway.
Slow with updates? Thats because I have been busy doing bodywork on the Highroof bus. A very boring, dusty and time consuming work. But now its in surffacer/filler/primer and ready for more sanding again, and hopefully thats it before paint. Paint for roof (white) and body (VW L20a Marino yellow) is bought. Still have all the doors and lids to do also! Got some new parts too, new lids for electric 240v hook up and fresh watertank filler with lock. A Vitrifrigio C60 fridge in stainless will chill the drinks and food nicely, its 60 liters and 10,5 liter is freezer. Danfoss compressor of course!
Have started the bodywork on the Highroof bus, preparing for primer and paint. Lots of sanding to do, when that is done it’s time for a coat of epoxyprimer again, to protect bare metal, then a quick sanding before a coat of surfacerprimer is layer down. Then it needs to be sanded down all over again. Then probably another coat of surffacerprimer again and then maybe it’s time for topcoat paint in VW L20a Marino yellow. A lot of people think it’s just mix paint and spray, but it’s not like that…only in fantasy!
After a weekend of work on the bus roof its now in primer! Finally. It needed a ton of work, was alot of gelcoat cracks that needed to be sorted. And the left rear corner of the roof had been hit earlier in the bus life and needed to be fixed up nicer. Will test fit a new Fiamma rooflight/ventilation and then I can continue with the bodywork on rest of the bus. Looking forward to paint! But still a long way and lots of hours left…
The engine bay is now ready for the fueltank and later on the 1800cc+ type 4 engine (need to be rebuilt first) to be installed. Today the whole front cab of the bus got sanded down (mostly by hand), front doors removed, masked, seamsealed, prepared for primer and then topcoat in Off White color in 2 layers. Most of this wont be showing when all sounddeadning materials and carpets are in place later but good to have a clean surface for glue and its also nice to know its clean and protected under the carpets.
Next up is; top section of dashboard needs to be removed to paint it in semi-gloss Deepblack (easier to do when windscreen is already out). After this I can start with the outside body of the bus and make it ready for paint. Here is some new pics…
Yeah! The bus is now rolling on its own wheels again, after been standing like a empty shell in the air for 7 months. Still need to route new brakelines and brakehoses, and bleed the whole system. Must also restore the factory installed Eberspracher BA6 heater that are going to be installed under the center floor. But now its time to start with paint and body. The engine compartment and front cab need to get painted in VW L20A Marino yellow first, then I can start working on the outside. Lots of work still left to do, but much have been done on places you normally dont see…
Have been working on the transmission and driveshafts lately. Had a pile of new parts from Just Kampers waiting for it. The tranny was in very good shape and have been restored by VW (exchange parts) in the 1980s. But it still needed alot of work to look good again. Highpressure washed the case 3 times, to remove dirt and old oil. Drained the oil and it still looked nice (good sign)! Then 3 coats of paintremover was added so the black paint could be peeled off the case. Degreased it one more time, wirebrushed and sanded it making it ready for paint. A coat of primer for aluminium/etch was layed down and then 3 coats of 2K silvermetallic paint on top.
A new mainshaft oil seal was added, and both driveflange/shaft seals too. The nosecone got a new reamed bronze bushing and oilseal for the shiftleveler. Also the small plastic balljoint in the end of the shiftlever (the one that pushes gears) was replaced to a new made of steel, and will last a life time instead of a brittle plastic part that was before. The shiftrod feels very accurate and precise now, no more sloppy gearshifter! This is also a popular upgrade on VW race transmissions. Driveshafts and hubs was sandblasted and painted. New groundcable to chassi. New clutchwire. New gaskets, rubberboots and CV joints installed. New startermotor + bushing mounted too. New trans mounts upper and lower. And then the transmission was filled up with new fresh mineral API-5 grade transmission oil that VW recommended on these 002 cases. This oil is extra good to the special metalparts like syncro rings etc. Not aggressive like other grades can be to these old transmissions. Here is the pics…
Started to get the other side done, blasted, painted and new bearings and seals. Waiting on some new parts from JustKampers and hopefully I can put the bus back on its own wheels this weekend for first time in 6 months. Also fixed the rusted and dented up front floor cover, blasted and painted ready to be installed when all wires and brakes are fixed.
Have now started with the rear end of the bus, hope to soon have it rolling on wheels again, after 6 months in the air. Dismantled the rear IRS trailingarms, removed all old bearings and seals, cleaned it up and sandblasted everything. Then all parts was coated in zinc primer and the Deep black satin finish paint. All new wheelsbearings and seals pressed in, new bushings everywhere and also nuts/bolts. All new brakeparts and brakedrums too. One step closer…
Have finally got some stuff done on my own project, Baywindow Highroof 1975. The frontend is all done, just need to mount the new brakelines etc. The sandblasted and painted beam have all new needlebearings, new centerpin/arm bushings, new grease zerks, torsionarms have new balljoints, new swaybar bushings, new shocks, new steeringdampner, new tie rods and draglink, steeringbox is adjusted (no more play) got new oil too and a new rubber/steeringplate. Wheels bearings are new and packed with fresh grease, new brakediscs, new speedocable and brakecalipers have been blasted, and have all new seals and pistons, brakepads etc. New masterbrakecylinder and new brakebooster is in place too. Basicly every nut and bolt are new on this car!
Here is some new pics…
Got some stuff done on the front beam/axle on the Highroof bus this week. Fitted new grease zerks to the beam, installed a new center swivelpin and bushings, test fitted the new brakebooster, 4 new needlebearings (made a tool so they were easy to pull out). They were seated 8mm inside the tubes. Used a old bearing to knock them in again, and then the tool the last bit. New dustcovers mounted too. Got the axle bolted up in the frame on the bus and during the weekend, I will start installing torsionarms, spindles, tierods etc. The bus starts to look really nice, atleast underneath! 😉 More pics coming soon!
Been in Barcelona, Spain with the family on a vacation and just got back home. Nice to see some sun instead of snow! 🙂 Going to start put together the front beam axle this week. I have all the new parts from JUSTKAMPERS waiting for it, and hopefully have it bolted back up in the frame on the bus. More pics coming soon!
The front beam/axel have been sandblasted and painted in Deepblack paint. Also modified the servo/brakebooster bracket so a new modern Brazil Bay booster will fit on the old Bay beam. The bracket was made 30mm extra wide, because the bolt pattern is little diffrent on the new servo. Doing this you just have to pay 140euros for a new servo instead for the original 400euros(!).